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Identifying textiles and leather

Fragile organic survivals.

Textiles rarely survive except in waterlogged, arid, or metal-salt-preserved conditions. Weave, fibre, and dye are recorded under magnification — thread count and spin direction (S or Z twist) are the standard first observations.

The commonest survival is invisible at first: mineral-preserved textile, where corrosion from a brooch or buckle has replaced the cloth that touched it. Check the corrosion on metal finds for the ghost of a weave before any cleaning.

Leather cracks and shrinks; tooling and stitch holes reveal the original object, and shoes are the classic waterlogged find. Keep wet leather wet until a conservator advises otherwise — uncontrolled drying is destruction.

Both materials want stable, cool, dark storage. Record weave or grain, dimensions, and every stitch hole and seam; the construction details are the identification.

From the guide library inside Collectors Catalogues, a free app for cataloguing antiques and finds with honest, museum-grade records.

More on materials

Copper alloy or bronze? — Why cataloguers say “copper alloy”.

Identifying copper alloy — Copper, bronze, and brass — telling them apart.

Identifying silver — Tarnish, hallmarks, and the ring test.

Identifying gold — Why gold looks untouched after centuries.

Identifying iron — Corrosion, lamination, and magnetism.

Identifying lead and pewter — Soft, heavy, and dull gray.

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