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Identifying iron

Corrosion, lamination, and magnetism.

Iron rusts to orange-brown, and buried iron often survives as a swollen, laminated mass of corrosion around a shrunken metal core. The original surface — and any decoration — usually lies inside the crust, not on top of it.

It is magnetic — a magnet is a quick first test that separates iron from copper alloys, lead, and precious metals. Remember the test only proves iron content, not age: modern steel answers the magnet just as readily.

Resist the urge to chip or wire-brush corrosion off. The shape of the object lives in that crust, and X-ray is the standard way to read a corroded iron object’s original form, sometimes revealing inlay no eye could see.

Store iron finds dry — a sealed box with silica gel is enough — because damp restarts the rust. Record the overall form, weight, and any lamination honestly; “iron object, form obscured by corrosion” is a real and useful entry.

From the guide library inside Collectors Catalogues, a free app for cataloguing antiques and finds with honest, museum-grade records.

More on materials

Copper alloy or bronze? — Why cataloguers say “copper alloy”.

Identifying copper alloy — Copper, bronze, and brass — telling them apart.

Identifying silver — Tarnish, hallmarks, and the ring test.

Identifying gold — Why gold looks untouched after centuries.

Identifying lead and pewter — Soft, heavy, and dull gray.

Identifying bone, antler, and ivory — Organic materials and their grain.

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