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Identifying cameos and intaglios

Carved in relief or sunk.

Cameos are carved in raised relief, often in layered stone or shell; intaglios are engraved into the surface for sealing. An intaglio’s design reads correctly in its impression — check it in putty, not just by eye.

Shell cameos are warm, lightweight, and curved on the back, with the layers in soft browns and whites; hardstone cameos (agate, onyx) are cold, flat-backed, and take crisper detail. Wheel-cut work shows rounded channel ends under a loupe.

Glass paste copies — including the celebrated eighteenth-century Tassie casts — reproduce famous gems and are collectable in their own right, but bubbles and molded (not cut) detail give them away under magnification.

Subject and style date the carving; the setting dates the mounting, and the two often differ — ancient gems were remounted for centuries. Record stone, subject, and setting separately.

From the guide library inside Collectors Catalogues, a free app for cataloguing antiques and finds with honest, museum-grade records.

More on jewellery

Dating medieval brooches — Form, pin, and section are your clues.

Identifying brooch and fibula types — Spring, bow, and catch.

Identifying finger rings — Hoop, shoulders, and bezel.

Identifying beads — Material, perforation, and wear.

Identifying earrings — Hoops, pendants, and wires from four thousand years of pierced ears.

Identifying bracelets and bangles — Penannular gaps, snake heads, and twisted wire around the wrist.

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